Reaper Bone Miniature Preparation

I can’t believe it’s been nearly 7 years since I’ve backed Reaper Miniatures Bones II: The Return Of Mr Bones!; it was my first real exposure to the miniature painting hobby.

Over the years, I’ve had ups and downs with these affordable figurines, and I’ve certainly learned a thing or two.

By no means is this the only way to prepare a Reaper Bones Miniature, this is merely the approach I take to help illuminate those fine details before adding color.

Bath

As you may have heard Reaper Bones Miniatures often retain their mold release agent; this can effect how paint adheres to it.

It’s never a bad idea to give your figure a soapy wash & scrub. I use an old frayed toothbrush and some dish soap.

Make sure to let it fully dry before applying any paint!

Base

It wasn’t until recently that I leaped back into the miniature painting hobby I recalled that I had a large hoard of Reaper Bones Miniatures just stashed away on a bookshelf.

This time I was more inspired, and had many excellent sources on YouTube to learn from:

The absolute best tips I’ve had in regards to Reaper Bones Miniatures was from Black Magic Craft: I should be base coating with a cheap acrylic paint rather than spray primer. This really helps with paint adhesion later on.

I like to use Antique White Apple Barrel Acrylic with a healthy mixture of Liquitex Professional Matte Fluid Medium. Then, with a heavy hand, I make sure every surface is coated.

Be sure to leave your miniature to fully dry; it shouldn’t take much longer than a hour.

After grabbing a sandwich or ale, your figure should look something like this:

Wash

We are now ready for the fun, and frankly, if I’m honest, the messiest part of preparation.

I keep a container of cheap black wash in an old glass jar. This mixture consists of water, any ol’ black acrylic paint, Liquitex Professional Matte Fluid Medium, and a single drop of dish soap.

Go ahead and add your signature touch. I attach my figure to an old paint bottle using some Aleene’s Instant Tacky Craft Putty, then give it a couple of dunks in the mixture. Make sure to drip the excess wash back into the container.

After dunking you can thin large globs of wash using an old paint brush, you can also add more wash from the jar if you feel some areas are lacking.

Once I’m satisfied with the wash I let the figure dry overnight, remember you can always give it another couple dunks the following morning.

And that’s it.

I’m now able to see those finer details, and take advantage of translucent acrylic paints.

Warhammer 40,000 Kill Team Starter Set

During the last couple weeks I’ve begun painting the Games Workshop Warhammer 40,000 Kill Team Starter Set which I picked up months back.

This was my first time painting anything from Games Workshop, and I’m blown away with the fine detail on these sculptures. They were extremely enjoyable to paint!

Check out the timeline as I paint each module layer by layer.

Warhammer

I used the following products on these miniatures:

I’m looking forward to painting more highly detailed Games Workshop miniatures, and improving my painting skills.

DIY Dungeon & Dragons Terrain

I’ve been spending a lot of time watching Terrain building on Youtube, and Black Magic Craft has some bad ass videos!

Following one of his earlier video’s I set out to make myself some realistic foam Dungeon Tiles:

I decided to go all in and grabbed myself a Proxxon 37080 Hot Wire Cutter. This table makes cutting the base foam, and the 1×1 grid lines a breeze:

After all those cuts I went to texturing using a rolled up ball of Aluminum foil, this step really adds a ton of character to the piece:

Just like Jeremy suggest I coat every piece in black acrylic paint & Mod Podge,
the protection and extra weight is really nice:

A couple hours of painting later I had myself a set of Dungeon Tiles, all that was left was to setup a dungeon and place some 3D prints to see if my hard work paid off:

At this point I was hyped I set out on print some more scatter terrain. Thingiverse is a great resource, and I’ve really enjoyed Curufin’s (Ryan Beasecker) 28mm models.

I do all my 3D printing on an entry level FlashForge Finder, this tend to work great for my use cases.